Questions about wearing of pattkay(turban).

[Traveller]

I have noticed that in the Peshawar valley very few people are wearing pattkay and they are generally very old. It seems to me the tradition is dying. I wonder how common it is in the areas other members are from.
Another question I have is if you guys have any tips on learning how to tie a turban as I have recently developed an interest.

[Charsi Malang]

I have noticed that in the Peshawar valley very few people are wearing pattkay and they are generally very old. It seems to me the tradition is dying. I wonder how common it is in the areas other members are from.
Another question I have is if you guys have any tips on learning how to tie a turban as I have recently developed an interest.

I heard the tradition is on the decline even in FATA. In my own area I have seen only one person who would wear a patkai. My grandad used to wear one regularly as well as a "kulla lungai". In the 50s the "kulla lungai" was the height of fashion amongst young men.

[maneatinglizard]

Seems like it's been out of style where I'm from for a long time. I've heard it was common during my grandparents' generation, but I've seen a lot of pictures from the Mujahideen era and practically no one was wearing one. Instead, everyone sported a Pakol. But as long as the Taliban and other religious-oriented groups are around, I don't think it'll ever fully die out.

As for learning to wear one, I think the best thing you can do is just keep on tying it until it looks right. Most of the videos I've seen on YouTube purporting to teach how to tie it end up with really bad looking turbans, so I wouldn't follow them too closely.

Some general tips:
- The hardest parts are the first layer and last. You want to fasten the tail end for at least the first two layers, as allowing it to dangle freely could result in a turban that is too loose, which can look bad and be prone to falling apart. Usually you do this by keeping it under your chin (some people hold it in their mouths), but you could ask someone else to hold it for you if you're having trouble. As for the last layer, if your tail was too long or too short, the last layer won't wrap properly, and you'll need to redo the whole thing.
- I don't think most Pashtuns do this, but if you start the first layer by pulling the turban over the edge of the hat instead of the side, it becomes easier to keep it from slipping. It doesn't seem to affect the overall look of the turban, so try it out if you're having trouble keeping it from falling apart.
- Unlike other styles of turban, lungeys are made from a slippery material, so you'll need to twist the inner layers as you wrap them to get them to hold. You don't need to have it twisted all the way through if you don't want that, but completely flat turbans don't work. Speaking of material, a lot of lungeys are supposedly made from silk, which is not allowed for men in Islam. If the material is primarily something else, I believe it should be okay.
-If you want a shamla, you'll probably have to re-tie it a few times to get the proper length at the end for a proper one. At the last layer, you won't stuff the end of the turban into the space between the hat and the wrapped layers like you normally do, but rather a few inches before that. How much depends on how tall you want your shamla and what material your turban is made out of.

[Kakar-Wardak]

I've seen quite a few pashtuns wear sindhi topi, they look badass with their long flowing hair, sindhi topi, pakol or patkay mix in a shawl all looks good.

[toughpashtun]

I have noticed that in the Peshawar valley very few people are wearing pattkay and they are generally very old. It seems to me the tradition is dying. I wonder how common it is in the areas other members are from.
Another question I have is if you guys have any tips on learning how to tie a turban as I have recently developed an interest.

I don't know if the pattkay was ever a popular dress item in the Peshawar valley , but you're right , its not used that much anymore in this region.In other areas such as Southern KPK , FATA , Balochistan's Pashtun belt and Afghanistan it is still used. Especially when a gathering or jirga is taking place , then it is definitely worn. The younger crowd does not use the turban though , even in villages they'd just wear a traditional hat or prayer cap.

[Nekrofrost]

It is a dying fashion sadly. Im glad that i have a patkay and know how to wear and often will as well but sadly other people dont like it for some reason. I guess one of the reasons for it being out of style is also how it aint something youll find in every clothes store and stuff like the pakol is

[salman47]

Pakol and the 'shimla-less turban'/white jumat cap is becoming more common everywhere!!

[Traveller]

Seems like it's been out of style where I'm from for a long time. I've heard it was common during my grandparents' generation, but I've seen a lot of pictures from the Mujahideen era and practically no one was wearing one. Instead, everyone sported a Pakol. But as long as the Taliban and other religious-oriented groups are around, I don't think it'll ever fully die out.

As for learning to wear one, I think the best thing you can do is just keep on tying it until it looks right. Most of the videos I've seen on YouTube purporting to teach how to tie it end up with really bad looking turbans, so I wouldn't follow them too closely.

Some general tips:
- The hardest parts are the first layer and last. You want to fasten the tail end for at least the first two layers, as allowing it to dangle freely could result in a turban that is too loose, which can look bad and be prone to falling apart. Usually you do this by keeping it under your chin (some people hold it in their mouths), but you could ask someone else to hold it for you if you're having trouble. As for the last layer, if your tail was too long or too short, the last layer won't wrap properly, and you'll need to redo the whole thing.
- I don't think most Pashtuns do this, but if you start the first layer by pulling the turban over the edge of the hat instead of the side, it becomes easier to keep it from slipping. It doesn't seem to affect the overall look of the turban, so try it out if you're having trouble keeping it from falling apart.
- Unlike other styles of turban, lungeys are made from a slippery material, so you'll need to twist the inner layers as you wrap them to get them to hold. You don't need to have it twisted all the way through if you don't want that, but completely flat turbans don't work. Speaking of material, a lot of lungeys are supposedly made from silk, which is not allowed for men in Islam. If the material is primarily something else, I believe it should be okay.
-If you want a shamla, you'll probably have to re-tie it a few times to get the proper length at the end for a proper one. At the last layer, you won't stuff the end of the turban into the space between the hat and the wrapped layers like you normally do, but rather a few inches before that. How much depends on how tall you want your shamla and what material your turban is made out of.

It is a dying fashion sadly. Im glad that i have a patkay and know how to wear and often will as well but sadly other people dont like it for some reason. I guess one of the reasons for it being out of style is also how it aint something youll find in every clothes store and stuff like the pakol is

Where did you guys learn how to wear one?

[Traveller]

I heard the tradition is on the decline even in FATA. In my own area I have seen only one person who would wear a patkai. My grandad used to wear one regularly as well as a "kulla lungai". In the 50s the "kulla lungai" was the height of fashion amongst young men.

Isn't a kulla lungai a type of pattkay?

[Nekrofrost]

Where did you guys learn how to wear one?

Well there are like 2 or 3 youtube videos but other than that i just look at pictures and try finugring it out myself

[Nekrofrost]

Isn't a kulla lungai a type of pattkay?

Lungey is the southerner way of saying patkay i think(kulla being hat)

[maneatinglizard]

Where did you guys learn how to wear one?

I found some guides/videos on the internet. They weren't very useful, so I asked some people who wore turbans. They didn't wear Afghan style turbans, but they helped me figure out how to keep it fastened. I also wore non-Afghan style turbans a bunch (they're easier to wear and a little more comfortable). I basically just kept trying and asking my parents if it looked right. Eventually I got it down, but even now the way I wear it doesn't look exactly the same as the ones you see in stock photos.

Lungey is the southerner way of saying patkay i think(kulla being hat)

We call it lungey too (from Paktia). I don't know if you consider that south or not, but we pronounce ښ as 'kh' and ږ as 'g', so our dialect is generally considered part of the "Northern" dialects.

In general, the distinctions between Northern and Southern dialects breaks down in the central Pashtun lands.

[Charsi Malang]

Isn't a kulla lungai a type of pattkay?

I suppose it is. A "kulla " is a hard and taller than normal skullcap with embroidery on it-mostly golden. A lungai is the cloth or turban that you wrap around it. You would use less material in this type of headgear and the bit that hangs over your shoulder would often be shorter than with a regular lungai or patkai. A "kulla lungai" is easier to take off as you can just take it off like a hat and then put it back on when you need to but it doesn't suit everyone. I have one at home for decoration purposes. I also have several "patkee" or "lungai" gorgeous colours and exclusively worn by Pashtuns/Afghans. I was looking for a rust and grey one recently but couldn't find it.

Patkee are gorgeous especially the colors combinations they come in.

[Elite Pakhtun]

Does anyone know if you can buy these? Anywhere online?

[torkham]

Afghan Lungee Turban Cloth me514 -

I seen it here for sale.
BTW patkai/longi/longotai is the turban ie pagri in Hindi.
Kulla is the gold threaded cap. popular with Shinwari and Mohmand, generally pashtuns around Nangarhar. The longi/patkai wraps around the kulla.

usually any white prayer cap will do but often many pashtun prefer a rigid cap with some ornamental thread.

In my southern region, the gold threaded bling kulla is not used, instead I and we use a balochi khuli (pakis call it sindhi tupi).

The wrapping of longi is a dead give away to the region a style is associated with.
Eg gold cloth, huge patkai; Katawaz saeb style indicates Paktia/Waziristan region.
Classic style has rolls on one side, and band on other side with a shamla on top to one side. Nangarhari often wear distinct tall kulla and wrap the longi neat and tight in a band around the kulla.
Tsamkani style has distinct style, often big turban with even distribution.
Atsakzai style has rolls on the forehead. Kandahari style is slightly lop-sided and not big.

When you buy a longi, buy 'abresham' - it's a nice cloth. Even better is the finer quality material in solid colours called 'paaj' / 'faaj'.
Width of longi determines how big the turban will be. Width is often pre-cut and packaged in hand-widths (4 -gira to 6-gira). Length is more or less 2 metres. Paaj can be longer as it is sold off a roll and the cloth is finer.

If you are out of the country ask someone to bring it for you. Best places for choice I found outside of Kandahar/Hilmand is Quetta. Peshawar is also good place.

Most of the packaged longi come from factories in Multan, so if you know someone in Pak., place your order.