Pakol

[HalloIsBack]

the reason why i open this thread is cuz i'm fed up with the discussion: the pakol is pashtun no it tajik, why do wear this f u c k ing tajik a pakol etc.


the pakol is nuristani just live with it!

[HalloIsBack]

CLOTHING xiii. Clothing in Afghanistan

Traditional clothing reflects these geographic and residential variations and also serves to express individual and group identity, social and economic status, stages of the life-cycle, and changing sociopolitical trends, which ultimately lead to new styles, as well as to exchanges of clothing types.


CLOTHING
xiii. Clothing in Afghanistan
The medley of tribal and ethnic populations in the diverse landscape of Afghanistan live mainly in rural towns and villages and nomadic camps. Hardly 5 percent lead urban lives. Traditional clothing reflects these geographic and residential variations and also serves to express individual and group identity, social and economic status, stages of the life-cycle, and changing sociopolitical trends, which ultimately lead to new styles, as well as to exchanges of clothing types (L. Dupree, pp. 238-47). Although terminology for all items of Afghan clothing varies widely, the central role of dress in Afghan culture is clear from the fact that new garments are essential for family, religious, and seasonal celebrations.
Headgear. The most diagnostic item of clothing is headgear; and even the ubiquitous turban (Pers. langōtā, dastār, Pashto paṭkay, pagṛi), which can vary in length from 3 to 6 m, takes on distinguishing characteristics, depending on the arrangement of folds (L. Dupree, pp. 71, 162). White cotton is the most common turban cloth, though certain Pashtun groups prefer black and prestigious silk turbans tend to be woven in muted grays, browns, and pinks (plates cxxviii, cxxix). Whatever the material, the longer the turban, the more fashionable the man. A young boy signals the coming of manhood by ceremoniously donning a turban. The easily recognizable shapes and decorative designs of the caps (Pers. kolāh, Pashto ḵōlay) worn under tur*bans are also distinctive indicators. Cylindrical silk-embroidered caps distinguish the Uzbek and Tajik (see xv, below), fitted skullcaps of quilted chintz and felt (barrak) the Hazāra (see xiv, below), and the famous cylindrical caps embroidered with gold and silver thread (golābatūnī) the Pashtun of Qandahār; foldable caps encrusted with shiny colored-glass beads (marīdārā) are also made in Qandahār (N. H. Dupree, 1977, p. 286). The Baluch set round mirror fragments (šīša) into their designs (see xviii, xix, below). Coni*cal caps of wheat straw (druzaw ḵōlay) are unique among the Šīnwārī eastern Pashtun, as are the small, round felt caps found in the high mountains of the northeast. Other male headgear includes busby-like shapes (tīlpak) made from sheepskin, worn by the Turkmen (L. Dupree, p. 182; see xxvi, below), round fur-trimmed hats and quilted hats with earflaps worn by the Kirghiz (Dot and Naumann), and flat-topped woolen caps with rolled rims worn in Nūrestān (pakōl generally; śukokuṛ in Kāmvīrī; Michaud, 1980, ill. 91). The modified cylindrical hat made from Persian lamb (qarakolī), which had distinguished all educated urban men since the beginning of the 20th century (Charpentier, 1977), is currently out of fashion.
Head coverings for all women are prescribed in Islam. Most women in traditional Afghan communities, therefore, wear variations of large or small rectangular headscarves, commonly called čādar (see Âčādor), with or without small hats similar to the men’s kolāh. The čādar is made of soft cotton, often but by no means always in a solid color. Among certain Pashtun tribeswomen the čādar is an ankle-length mantle re*sembling a cape, bordered with heavy gold embroidery (Michaud, 1980, ill. 67). In contrast to the čādar, the čādarī is composed of a close-fitting cap from which finely pleated colored silk or rayon falls, completely enveloping the figure, with only an openwork em*broidered or crocheted grid over the eyes (Nicod, ills. 57, 59). Another style, with a separate see-through face veil, is called bōqrā (< Ar. borqoʿ; Herat) and paranjī (Kondūz). All čādarīs are primarily urban garments (N. H. Dupree, 1978). The most spectacular headgear is worn by Turkmen women. Although the shapes of these tall (up to 45 cm) headdresses (Turkic bojmāq, Pers. qaṣabā) differ from group to group, as do the silk wrappings, silver studs, and festooned ornaments that decorate them, all mark major stages in the lives of their owners. The exuberant creations worn by brides are replaced by more modest versions once they become mothers, and after menopause the silver ornaments are set aside entirely (Stucki, 1978). Uzbek bridal headdresses, though similar, are not as elaborate (P. Centlivres). Individual creativity is also expressed in the decoration of baby bonnets with a profusion of pompoms, feathers, baubles, and beads.
Garments. The basic costume for men, women, and children is made from lightweight cotton and consists of loose-fitting, long-sleeved shirts worn outside wide trousers (Pers. tanbān, ezār, Pashto partōg) gathered on a drawstring (ezārband). The length of the men’s shirt (perān, korta), which is typically collarless and buttoned at one shoulder (N. H. Dupree, 1977, p. 388), varies from region to region, from knee to mid-calf or even lower. The finely embroidered Qandahāri shirt fronts (gaṛa, ganḍa) are renowned.
Waistcoats (waskat) are universally popular and may be made of black and red velvet decorated with gold braid or embroidery, as found in Qandahār (called sadrī) and among some Pashtun nomads, or fashioned from local materials, like barrak (see barak) in the Hazārajāt. Many men, however, prefer Western vests purchased, along with Western coats and jackets, from second-hand clothing bāzārs. Indigenous types of outer garment are also worn. They include dressed-sheepskin coats worn with the fleece inside, with sleeves (pōstīn) or without (pōstīṇča), and often embroidered, a spe*cialty in the Pashtun area around Ḡaznī. Throughout the north full-length, quilted or single-weight collar*less robes, striped in multiple colors and with long sleeves covering the hands (jīlak and čapan respec*tively); worn with a cloth sash (kamarband), are made of silk and handwoven cotton (karbās; N. H. Dupree, 1977, p. 341). A typical Uzbek type of padded coat, of brown or dark-red cotton, slips over the head and fastens at one side of the neck (gopīča). Elaborately embroidered short-sleeved felt coats (kūsay) are worn by the Pashtun in Paktīā. Woolen shawls (čādar, Pashtu patū) are also popular with men in winter.
Nūrestāni dress is the most distinctive in Afghani*stan. Men wear white woolen trousers, reaching just below the knee (viṭ in Kāmvīrī, spoken in Kāmdeš), over long black leggings like puttees (pātaw), which, aside from the knitted wool stockings decorated with traditional designs of the Hazāra, are the only leg coverings made in Afghanistan. Prized silver-studded belts (mālāa niśte) for daggers (kātra) are also unique to Nūrestān (L. Dupree, p. 143). Nūrestāni women sometimes wear leggings under long, full skirts or robes (bāźü) gathered at the waist with woven belts (niśte) and embellished across the back of the shoul*ders and down the sleeves with a combination of red and black embroidered appliqués found nowhere else in Afghanistan (L. Dupree, p. 234).
Elsewhere, although women’s dress styles conform to an overall pattern similar to that of men, differences in the length of the dress; the cut, drape, and fullness (up to 20 m) of the voluminous trousers; the width of the sleeves at the wrists and the trousers at the ankles; and fabrics—prints, textures, and decoration—are matters of great consequence to all women (plates cxxx, cxxxi). In contrast to men’s clothing, which is generally tailored in bāzārs, most women’s clothing is hand- or machine-stitched at home. Especially among the eastern Pashtun the high-waisted bodices of the dresses, the flaring elbow-length cuffs, and deep borders on the hems of skirts containing as much as 12 m of flowered cotton or velvet are covered with exquisite embroidery. Red, green, and royal-purple velvet are favored by the wealthier nomads, the māldār.
In the cities, especially among the educated middle and upper classes, Western styles have predominated since they were introduced early in the 20th century as part of government efforts to modernize (N. H. Dupree, 1988). Fashions have closely followed European models through the years, and, for women, Western dress came to symbolize emancipation (Rahimi, 1977). After the leftist revolution of 1357 Š./1978 and during the subsequent years of Soviet occupation Western dress continued in vogue in Kabul. On the other hand, Afghan refugees in Pakistan, both men and women, wear traditional garments as symbols of their adherence to Afghan culture and Islam.
Footgear. Plastic shoes of every hue and style are popular throughout Afghanistan, but a variety of stout leather sandal (čaplī, Pashto čaplay), often soled with rubber cut from old tires, is also worn in many areas. Straw sandals (mazarī čaplay) are found in Paktīā. Also distinctive are the ankle-high moccasins of Nūrestān (vācó) and the knee-high leather boots, high*-heeled (čamūs; Nicod, ill. 29) or soft-soled (māsī), worn by northern Turkic speakers. The stout rubber over*shoes (kalawš) worn to cover the magi outside the home are also commonly worn alone (plate cxxviii).
Jewelry. Jewelry, mostly of silver, is an important item in every woman’s wardrobe, and generous sprin*klings of silver beads, disks, coins, fastenings, and amulets (taʿwīḏ) are sewn onto clothing. Among some nomads, the eastern Pashtun in particular, these silver ornaments are typically combined with mirror work, gold and silver filament and braid, and elaborate beading, in addition to the fine embroidery described above.


CLOTHING xiii. Clothing in Afghanistan ? Encyclopaedia Iranica

[HalloIsBack]

CLOTHING xxviii. Concordance of clothing terms among ethnic groups in modern Persia

This concordance has been compiled from xiii-xxvi, above.


CLOTHING
xxviii. Concordance of clothing terms among ethnic groups in modern Persia
This concordance has been compiled from xiii-xxvi, above.
M: garments worn by men
F: garments worn by women
aba, cloak, caftan (M Harkī Kurdish)
ʿabāʾ, coat (M Qašqāʾī)
abā-nemet, cape, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
ʿabayye, mantle (M Kurdish Jewish)
adamlıq, pear-shaped pendant (F Turkmen)
afendī, cotton čādor (F central and southern Khorasan)
āḡābānū, muslin (Kurdish)
äḷčäk, sleeve pendant (F Azeri)
āldaŋi, headband (F Turkmen)
alḵāleq, doublet (M Caspian)
alḵālōg, jacket (F Zarzā Kurdish)
amra, handwoven wool (Kurdish Jewish)
ara tumanı, underskirt (F Azeri)
araqčın, skullcap (F Azeri, M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
arḵalıq, tunic, jacket, coat (F Azeri, M Šahsevän,
Qaradaḡi)
ārḵāloq, cloak, jacket (M, F Qašqāʾī)
asıq, heart-shaped pendant (F Turkmen)
āstīn, sleeve (F Caspian)
badle, embroidery (F Hormozgān)
bafta, decorative cloth braid (Azeri)
baḵari, coat (F Azeri)
balaq, trousers (M, F Turkmen)
balkāl, caftan (F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
bandōk. See bandūmī
bandūmī, swaddling (Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
bānzārī, embroidered sleeves (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
barrak, woollen cloth (Hazāra)
bāšlaḵ, cape (M Caspian)
bāšloq, scarf (F Daragaz)
bašmaq, half-slipper (F Azeri, M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
baṭṭūla, mask (F Hormozgān)
bāźü, robe (F Nūrestān)
ben pušī, scarf (F Harkī Kurdish)
berk, hat (M Qašqāʾī)
bēzbent, disk (M Turkmen)
bezelik. See bilezik
bıg baḡı, moustache tie (M Šahsevan, Qaradaḡi)
bījāmā, loose trousers (F Caspian)
bilezik, cuff bracelets (F Turkmen)
boḡmaq, headdress (F Ērsārı Turkmen)
bojmāq, headdress (F Turkmen, Afghanistan)
bōqrā, face veil (F Herat)
börk, skullcap (M, F Turkmen; Turkefied Ṭāleš)
borūk. See šopūrma
boyama, kerchief (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
būḵārāʾī. See qazzāqī
būl, nose ring (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
buqaw, choker (F Turkmen)
bürenğek, mantle (F Turkmen)
čabbaw, sandals (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
čabıt, coat (F Turkmen)
čādar, head scarf (F Afghanistan; Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan), mantle (F Pashtun), shawl (M Af*ghanistan)
čādarī, cap with veil and openwork panel for the eyes (F Afghanistan)
čādəršāb, wrap (F Caspian)
čādor, shawl (F Hazāra, Hormozgān, Qašqāʾī)
čaḵčur, leggings (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
čakman, caftan (M Hazāra)
čakme, rubber boots (M Caspian)
čakmen, jacket (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
čalma, turban (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
čamūs, high-heeled boots (M Turkic, northern Af*ghanistan)
čaŋŋa, lozenge with fretted edges (F Turkmen)
čapalī, slipper (F Hormozgān)
čapan, long-sleeved robe (M northern Afghanistan)
čapıq, rounded flap of a jacket skirt over the hip (F Azeri)
čäpkän, jacket (F Azeri)
čaplay, leather sandal (Pashtun)
čaplī, leather sandal (Afghanistan)
čaplī-e robbar, rubber sandal (M Hazāra)
čaplīt, rubber shoe (M Bīrjand)
čappat. See čaplıt
čapraz, bossed disk (F Turkmen)
čār-tark, four-gored crown of cap (M Hazāra)
čarāḵ Hazārajāt, heavy-soled shoes (M Hazāra)
čarāḵ soḵlī, rawhide moccasins (M Hazāra)
čarḡat, headcloth (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
čarḡat, shawl (F Turkmen)
čarıq, moccasin (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi, Turkmen)
čärkäzi čuḵa, coat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
čāroḵ, shoe (M Ṭāleš, Gāleš; M, F Kurdish, Khorasan)
čāroḵ-e ḵām, coarse shoe (M Kurdish, Khorasan)
čāroq, sandal (M Daragaz, Sabzavār)
čārqad, scarf (F Qašqāʾī, Kurdish, Khorasan)
čaršab, outer wrap (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
čāršāb. See čādəršāb
čāršo. See čādəršāb
čēkmen, mantle (M Turkmen)
čeltelīz, pleated shirt (M Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)
čeršaw, blue checked čādor (F Sabzavār)
čeṭṭ, swaddling rope (Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
čīn, skirt gathers (F Caspian)
čırpı, mantle (F Turkmen)
čoḡa, jacket (M Kurdish, Mahābād)
čoḵ, overcoat (M Kurdish, Khorasan)
čokka, coat (M Hormozgān)
čollāba, pin (F Hormozgān)
čoqā, cloak (M Qašqāʾī)
čoqay, slipper (M Turkmen)
čoqqī, shoe (F Sabzavār)
čuḵa, coat (M, Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi; F Azeri)
čūka, waistcoat without buttons (M Kurdish)
čūḵā, cloak (M Hazāra, Daragaz)
čūmūš, shoes (M Caspian)
čūqā, čūqā-līvāsī, tunic (M, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
čutqu, hood (F Azeri)
daraʿa, skirt (F Hormozgān)
darbalaq, drawers (F Azeri)
darpa, drawers (F Kurdish, Khorasan)
darpe, trousers (F Kurdish, Mahābād)
darpī, trousers (F Mīlān Kurdish)
dasmāl. See dastmāl
dastār, turban (M Afghanistan)
dastē kangaṛ, bracelet (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghani*stan)
dastkeš, gloves (M Caspian)
dastmāl, triangular shawl (F Kurdish, Mahābād)
dastmāl-sar, kerchief (F Kermānšāh Kurdish)
dastmāl-e sefīd, shawl (F Caspian)
depebent, cap plaque (M Turkmen)
der, coat (F Mīlān Kurdish)
der-i maḵmer, velvet coat (F Mīlān Kurdish)
derpe, trousers (F Zarzā Kurdish)
desmāl, scarf or shawl (F Mīlān Kurdish)
destār, turban (M Hazāra)
dezmāl, scarf (F Zarzā Kurdish)
dizlik, underdrawers (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
doḡa, cap plaque (M Turkmen)
dogūšī, hat (M Qašqāʾī)
dolaq, puttee (M Turkmen)
don, jacket (F Azeri; M Daragaz)
dōn, robe (M Turkmen)
dorra, turban (gypsies, Kaška-Daryā)
druzaw ḵōlay, conical straw hat (M Šīnwārī Pashtun)
ēdik, boot (M Turkmen)
eḡme, silver plaque (F Turkmen)
eḷček, sleeve pendant (F Mīlān Kurdish)
ešmäk, short fur-lined coat (F Azeri)
eyläk, waistcoat (F Mīlān Kurdish)
ezār, trousers (M, F Afghanistan; M Hazarā)
ezārband, drawstring (Afghanistan)
faqyāna, sleeve pendant (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
ferej, cape, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
gāleš, rubber overshoes (F Sabzavār)
gāləš, molded rubber shoes (F Caspian)
ganḍa, embroidered shirt front (M Qandahār)
gaṛa. See ganḍa
garībūn, collar (F Hormozgān)
gavan, skirt (F Hormozgān)
gavn, scarf (F Kurdish, Khorasan)
gejalik, jacket (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
gerāz, shift (F Harkī Kurdish)
gerd-e kollā, hat rim (M Hazarā)
giḍḍi, vest (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
gırās. See kırās
gırās-i banī, undershift (F Mīlān Kurdish)
gısa enteri, shirt (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
gīva, slipper (M Sabzavār)
gīva, gīva-malekī, sandal (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
goksu yelek, jacket (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
golābatūnī, embroidered cap (M Pashtun, Qandahār)
golvanī, kerchief (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
gönjük, fretted lozenge (F Turkmen)
gopīča, padded coat (M Uzbek, Afghanistan)
gotak, jacket (F Harkī Kurdish)
gubur čekman, jacket (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
gul, crescent-shaped ornament (F Harkī Kurdish)
güllü mäḵmär, cut velvet (Azeri)
gulow, cap (F Harkī Kurdish)
gulyaqa, collar stud (F Turkmen)
gūrāve, stockings (M Caspian)
harza, shoe (M Hormozgān)
hašt-tark, eight-gored crown of cap (M Hazarā)
haval kırās, trousers (F Mīlān Kurdish)
helake, waistcoat (F Kurdish Jewish)
hūrī, scarf (F Zarzā Kurdish)
ičmek, coat (M Turkmen)
jak. See medāḵel
jalīzqa, vest (F Sabzavār)
jāruq, mantle (F Harkī Kurdish)
jēg. See jīg
jēkaṭ, vest (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
jelesqa, vest (F. Kurdish, Khorasan. M Bīrjand)
jelez, waistcoat (F Caspian)
jelezqa, waistcoat (M Caspian, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
jelīqe, waistcoat (M, F Caspian)
jərqa, jacket (F Ṭāleš)
jīb, skirt (F Baluch, Persia)
jīg, embroidered bodice (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghani*stan)
jīlak, quilted robe (M, northern Afghanistan)
jizma, boot (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
jomā, shirt, dress (M, F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
jorab, woollen sock (F Azeri, M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
jorow, stocking (M Bīrjand)
jowa, dress (F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
jūfī, shoe (M Hormozgān)
julbār, drawers (F Turkmen)
jūma, shift, shirt (M, F Hormozgān)
jūrāb, stocking (M Caspian)
jūro, stocking (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
jüt-tuman, drawers (F Azeri)
kafalī, underskirt (F Caspian)
kāl-e šīrāzī, moccasins with knitted foot coverings (M, F Zarzā Kurdish)
ḵalā, clothing (Ṭāleš)
kalaḡay, head scarf (F Azeri)
kalāḡī, cap (F Kurdish, Kurdestan)
kalak, short cape (M Caspian)
kalawš, rubber overshoe (M northern Afghanistan)
kamar, belt (F Caspian)
kämär, belt (M, F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
kamarband, belt (M Caspian), sash (M, northern Afghanistan)
kamaṛčīn, topcoat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh) kamardabenezār, sash (F Caspian)
kamarī, belt (M Hazarā)
kamaršāl, sash (F Caspian)
kapanak, felt cloak (M Qašqāʾī)
kapank, felt cloak (M Sabzavār)
kāpī, shoes (M, F Hazāra)
karbās, cotton cloth (northern Afghanistan, Hazāra)
ḵasaba, headdress (F Yomut Turkmen)
kašida, scarf (M, F Kurdish)
katele, clog (M Caspian)
katibi, coat (F Azeri)
kātra, dagger (M Nūrestān)
katrāk, shoe with wooden sole (M Bīrjand)
kavā, topcoat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh), jacket (F Kurdish, Mahābād), waistcoat (M Kurdish)
kəj, silk floss (Caspian)
kəlā. See kolā
kelāw, cap (M Kurdish, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
kelū. See kelāw
kerās, shirt, dress (M, F Zarzā Kurdish, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
keynak, shirt, tunic (M, F Qašqāʾī)
kılāw, embroidered cap (F Kurdish, Mahābād)
kıḷčık. See eḷček
kırās, gırās, shirt, shift (M Kurdish; F Kurdish, Mahābād, Mīlān Kurdish)
kola, felt cap (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
kolā, hat, skullcap (M Caspian)
kolā-ḵosrowī, cylindrical hat (M Baḵtīārī)
kolā pahlevī, visored hat (M Caspian)
kolāgoš, muffler (M Caspian)
kolāh, cap (M Afghanistan, Hormozgān)
kolāqča, cap (F Qašqāʾī)
ḵōlay, cap (M Pashtun)
kolla. See kollaja
kollā, cap (M, F Hazāra)
kollaja, jacket (F Kurdish, Khorasan)
kolū. See kelāw
komoḵt, slipper (F Kurdish, Khorasan)
koptān, embroidered strip for skirt front (F Baluch, Persia)
kordīn, cape, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
korta, shirt (M Afghanistan)
körtak, gown (F Harkī Kurdish)
korvās, shirt, shift (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
koš, shoes (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
kot, jacket (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi; M, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
koter, coat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
kovā, coat (M Zarzā Kurdish)
kovnak, knee-length dress (F Daragaz)
kövüš, shoe (F Turkmen)
kowš-e sabz, green leather shoe (F Hormozgān)
köynak, shift (F Turkefied Ṭāleši)
köynäk, shirt or shift (F Azeri, M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
köynek, shirt, shift (M, F Turkmen)
kufi, cap (F Mīlān Kurdish)
kūfta, coat (M Hormozgān)
kūlaja, jacket (F Daragaz)
küläjä, coat (F Azeri)
kuldabād, shawl (F Caspian)
külla, cap (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
ḵurasan kürkü, sheepskin overcoat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
kürdü, fur-lined waistcoat (F Azeri)
kürk, sheepskin overcoat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
kuršaḵ, sash (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
kurtak, coat (F Kurdish Jewish)
kürte, mantle (F Turkmen)
kürte, shirt (M Turkmen)
ḵūs, gold thread (F Hormozgān)
kūsay, embroidered felt coat (M Pashtun, Paktīā)
kūt, jacket (M Caspian)
läbbädä, coat (F Azeri)
lačak, scarf (F Qašqāʾī)
lačak, hood (F Baḵtīārī, Boīr Aḥmad)
lačak, shawl (F Tajik)
lāčak. See leček
lambūta, shawl (M Bīrjand)
lang, turban (M Hormozgān)
langōtā, turban (M Afghanistan)
langūta, shawl, turban (M Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād, Hormozgān)
las, front pocket (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
lavānd, sleeve pendant (F Harkī Kurdish)
leček, scarf (F Caspian)
lelüfär, sleeve flared at elbow (F Azeri)
līfa, waistband of a skirt (F Ṭāleši)
līfand, drawstring (M Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)
lungota, turban (M Hazāra)
mačew, coat (M Hazāra)
mahud, broadcloth (Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
maknā, scarf (F Hormozgān)
mālāa niśte, silver-studded belt (M Nūrestān)
malakī, shoe (M Hormozgān)
malekī, shoe (M Qašqāʾī)
marʾaz, cloth of goat’s hair (Kurdish Jewish)
marīdārā, colored glass beads (Qandahār)
mašī, boot (M Hazāra)
māsī, soft-soled boot (M northern Turkic, Afghani*stan)
mäst, inner shoe (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
māšta, shawl (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
māšūē, coat (M Hormozgān)
mazarī čaplay, straw sandal (Pashtun, Paktīā)
medāḵel, lace (F Kurdish, Khorasan)
memand, belt (M Hazāra)
mendīl, shawl (M Sabzavār)
meškī, kerchief (F Kurdish Kermānšāh)
meynā, veil (F Baḵtīārī, Boīr Aḥmad)
mizär, apron (F Milan Kurdish)
močpīč, cuff protector (M Bīrjand)
namad, felt (Caspian)
neẓāmī, fitted trousers (F central and southern Khorasan)
nimtänä, jacket (F Azeri)
niśte, woven belt (F Nūrestān)
nīvtana, jacket (M, F Kurdish, Khorasan)
orsī, shoes (F Bīrjand)
öwürme, linked plaques (F Turkmen)
pā-kettel. See katele
pač, turban (M Kurdish)
pādak, trousers (M, F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
paddō, front pocket (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
pāg, turban (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
pagṛi. See paṭkay
pakōl, cap with rolled rim (M Nūrestān)
pālīk, legging (M Daragaz)
palta, scalloped decoration for cap (M Hazāra)
pandōl. See paddo
panjak, jacket (M Kurdish, Khorasan)
pāntol, trousers (M Kurdish, Mahābād)
pāntor, trousers (M Zarzā Kurdish)
papaq, cylindrical hat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
pāpūš, narrow trousers (M Lor)
parak. See telīza
paranjī, face veil (F Kondūz)
pāre, decorative braids (F Qasemābād)
partōg, trousers (M, F Pashtun)
pašk, shirt, dress (M, F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
pastak, long waistcoat (M Zarzā Kurdish)
patāva, puttees (M Kurdish, Khorasan)
pātave, puttees (M Caspian)
pātaw, leggings (M Nūrestān)
paṭkay, turban (M Pashtun)
patrondaš, bandolier (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
patū, mantle, shawl (M Pashtun)
pāyjāma, trousers (M Hazāra)
pāypēč, puttees (M Hazāra)
peč, turban (M Kurdish, Mahābād)
perān, (M Afghanistan, Hazāra)
perō, shirt, shift (M, F Hazāra)
peštand, sash (M, F Kurdish)
peštpand, sash (M, F Zarzā Kurdish)
petāva, puttees (M Kurdish, Khorasan)
peytava, puttees (M Sabzavār)
pirhan, tunic, shift (M, F Caspian)
pīrhan, dress (F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
pīšānaband, kerchief (F Persian, Bukhara, Samarkand)
pišāsar, scarf (F Caspian)
pištend, sash (F Kurdish, Mahābād)
pōstīn, sheepskin coat with sleeves (M Afghanistan)
pōstīṇča, sheepskin coat without sleeves (M Afghani*stan)
pūllī, nose pins (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
pur-pur, tucks (Mīlān Kurdish)
qabā, cloak, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Caspian, Hazāra; F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
qabā, overcoat (M Hormozgān)
qadak, trousers (F central and southern Khorasan)
qadak, cotton (Caspian)
qālāq, headband (F Qašqāʾī)
qamīṣ, shirt (M Hazāra, Hormozgān)
qāmma, dagger (M Caspian)
qarakolī, cylindrical hat of Persian lamb (M Afghani*stan)
qārma dōn, robe (M Turkmen)
qaṣabā, headdress (F Afghanistan)
qayıš, belt (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
qazzāqī, hat (M Daragaz)
qevā, topcoat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
qırmızı dōn, robe (M Turkmen)
qol, sleeve (F, Caspian)
qors, cap (Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)
qupba, cap finial (F Turkmen)
quršaq, waistband (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
qušaq, sash (M Turkmen)
rānk, trousers (M Kurdish, Mahābād)
rubänd, face veil (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
rūsar, ribbon (F Lāyenī Kurdish)
saat qabı, watch case (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
šäbkülah, nightcap (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
Sač monjuq, linked plaques (F Turkmen)
sačlıq. See sač monjuq
šaddā, headcloth (M Zarzā Kurdish)
sadrī, ornamented waistcoat (M Qandahār, Pashtun)
sāgī, tassel (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
šahpäsänd, silver or gold lace (Azeri)
sake, coin trimming (F Caspian)
šal, homespun woolen cloth (Azerbaijan)
šāl, homespun woolen cloth (Caspian)
šāl, cotton (Hazāra)
šāl, sash (M Caspian, Qašqāʾī, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
šāl, rope belt (M Hormozgān)
šāl-e hazāragī, fulled woolen fabric (M Hazāra)
šāl-pešt, sash (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
šāl-pišt, sash (F Mīlān Kurdish)
šāl-šalvār, woolen trousers (M Caspian)
šāl-šepik, mohair suit (M Harkī Kurdish)
šalīta, skirt (F Qašqāʾī; Kurdish, Qūčān; central and southern Khorasan)
šalīta, underskirt (F Daragaz)
šalīte, dress (F Caspian)
salla, turban (M Persian, Bukhara, Samarkand)
šalla šappikta, suit (M Kurdish Jewish)
salta, jacket (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
šalvār, trousers, pantaloons (M Kurdish, Yerevan; Hormozgān; M, F Caspian)
šalvār jāfī, trousers (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
šāmī, kerchief (F Qaramānī Kurdish)
šāpo, hat (M Caspian)
šār(l), scarf (F Kurdish, Khorasan)
sarband,headcloth (F Persian, Bukhara, Samarkand)
sardabād, scarf (F Caspian)
sarēg, head scarf (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
sarrīza, cap (F Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)
sarūk, headscarf (F Baluch, Persia)
sāroq, wrap (F northern Ṭāleš)
sarūveyn. See sarvan
sarvan, turban cloth, headband (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
šarwāla, trousers (F Kurdish Jewish)
šaw-kola, cap (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
šawlā, cape (M Caspian)
šawlār, trousers (M, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
šawlār-gošād, trousers (M Baḵtīārī)
sāya, mantle (F Kurdish)
šəkā, jacket (M Ṭāleši)
šenel, cape, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
šev, shirt, shift (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
šey, tunic, shift (M, F Ṭāleši)
sīā-dīsmāl, black kerchief (F Sabzavār)
sırḡa, earring (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
šīrī, shoe thong (M Caspian)
šīša, mirror fragments (Baluch, Pakistan, Afghani*stan)
soḵlī, shoe (M Hazāra)
soḵma, waistcoat (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
sommaq, headdress (F Teke Turkmen)
šopūrma, ovoid lambskin hat (M Daragaz)
sorāni, sleeve pendant (M, F Kurdish)
šovāl jāfī, trousers (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
šovāl-kol, underdrawers (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
šovī, shirt, shift (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
sudra, underdress (F Kurdish Jewish)
śukokuř, woolen cap with rolled rim (M Kāmvīrī, Nūrestān)
šūlā. See šawlā
tabeliḵ, central boss on cap (F Harkī Kurdish)
taḵtə, cloth strip (F Caspian)
taḵye, skullcap (F Turkmen)
tambān, trousers (M Hazāra)
tambō, trousers (M, F Hazāra)
tänbäki kisäsi, tobacco pouch (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
tanbān, trousers (M, F Afghanistan)
tanka. See toneka
tapanja qabı, pistol holster (M Šahsevān, Qaradaḡi)
tarā, turban (F Lori)
tārā, wedding veil (F Kurdish)
tarā awwal, scarf (F Lori)
tark, cap gore (M Hazāra)
tās-kelāw, cylindrical hat (F Kurdish, Mahābād)
tās-kolā, cylindrical cap (F Zarzā Kurdish)
täsäk, bonnet (F Azeri)
taʿwīḏ, amulet (Afghanistan, Baluch, Pakistan)
taʿwīz, amulet (M, F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
tawk, necklace (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
telīza, pleat (Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)
telpek, hat (M Turkmen)
tembū, trousers (M Sabzavār)
tenečir, triangular pendant (F Turkmen)
tīlpak, tall cylindrical hat (M Turkmen, Afghanistan)
tirmä, striped woolen twill (Azeri)
tōī, embroidered strip for bodice (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
tombūn, trousers (M, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
tombūn-zanūna, skirt (F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
tonbān, trousers (M central and southern Khorasan, Qašqāʾī)
tonbān, skirt (F Qašqāʾī)
toneka, underdrawers (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
tonoka, short drawers (F Qaramānī Kurdish)
tōpī, cap (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)
tos. See tūpī
tuman, skirt, underdrawers (F Azeri, Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi; M Šahsevān, Qaradaḡi)
tūmān, skirt (F Caspian)
tūmān qūže, waistband of a skirt (F Caspian)
tuman-köynäk, undergarment (F Azeri)
tumar, triangular plaque (F Turkmen)
tūpī, cap (F Bukharan Jewish)
tuppī, skullcap (F Tajik)
üzük, ring (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
uzun boḡaz čäkmä, boot (F Azeri)
uzun fez, tall fez (M Kurdish, Yerevan)
vācó, ankle-high moccasin (Nūrestān)
väznäli čuḵa, coat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
viṭ, trousers (M Kāmvīrī, Nūrestān)
waskat, waistcoat (M Afghanistan, Hazāra)
yaḡlıq, headband (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi, Turkmen)
yāḡloq, headband (F Qašqāʾī)
yak-naḵī, scarf (F central and southern Khorasan)
yal, jacket (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh, Khorasan; Daragaz; Sabzavār)
yāleq, scarf (F Daragaz)
yapınja, cloak (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)
yaqa-ye jūma, collar (F Hormozgān)
yašmaq, face veil (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi, Turkmen)
yāsmāq, face veil (F Gīlān)
yāšmāq, kerchief (F Daragaz)
yaylıḵ, shawl (F Ṭāleši)
zänjirä, silver or gold lace (Azeri)
zärḵara, gold brocade (Azeri)
zavūn, zebūn, topcoat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
zebūn, jacket (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
`er-kerās, `er-korvāsī, `er-ševī, undershirt (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
`er-šovāl, underdrawers (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)
zī, bodice (F Baluch, Persia)
zıvın, jacket (F Azeri)
zīr-šawlār, underdrawers (M, F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)
zol, shoe sole (M Caspian)


CLOTHING xxviii. Concordance of clothing terms ? Encyclopaedia Iranica

[Kushan Prince]

Even if it is nuristani why does it matter to you?

[Kushan Prince]

And pashtuns turbans are called lungee's not paktays!

[HalloIsBack]

Even if it is nuristani why does it matter to you?

to me? there is no matter!

but i'm here on pf to communicate with different people, to extend my knowledge and to share my knowledge with this people

if someone don't like what i write just don't read it! that's it!

[HalloIsBack]

And pashtuns turbans are called lungee's not paktays!

you can not say that one stuff or garment has got in all parts of afghanistan the same name

the same garment can have different names

the same with pashto as language
a pashtun from one province can not understand a pashtun from other province
besides of it there is no standard pashto

[HalloIsBack]

another source

Afghan Pawkul Hat

According to the internationally known scholar on Afghanistan, Louis Dupree, the pawkul is the regional headgear worn by the men of Nuristan, a region in northwest Afghanistan. Since they are primarily made in Chitral, Pakistan, they are also referred to as "Chitrali caps." In the 1980s, the pawkul was worn by a special unit of the Afghan Mujahideen who fought against the Soviets. Today, they are worn by the forces of the United Front (Northern Alliance). Ahmed Shah Masoud, whose home in the Panjshir Valley was not far from Chitral, as leader of the Northern Alliance, seems to have been influential in popularizing this headgear to be worn by the soldiers. He was assassinated in September, 2001.
The traditional wool Afghan pawkul hat

[HalloIsBack]

Terrorism, power outages hit Chitrali Patti business hard


Riffatullah
Saturday, October 23, 2010
From Print Edition


28 0 0 0


PESHWAR: The recent wave of terrorism and the power outages have affected the business of Chitrali Patti and the people associated with the business are mulling over shifting to other sectors for earning their livelihood.

Chitrali Patti, called ‘Shu’ in Khowar or Chitrali language, is an Urdu word, which means strip or bandage. It is a pure wool fabric, woven from entirely hand-spun yarn.

It is usually produced in lengths of 20 yards, and is between 12 and 14 inches wide. It comes in natural shades of white, grey, black and brown and the distinctive walnut-dyed red.

Felt is made after weaving this yarn, which ensures to make it light and warm. Patti is traditionally made in parts of Gilgit-Baltistan, where in Hunza it is called Pattu, and Chitral, but now the fabric is also made in Matta and Islampur in Swat valley, Bara area of Khyber Agency and Punjab.

The synthetic fabrics using factory-spun yarn, which is prepared in Punjab and Bara are of low quality.

Sadiq Amin, president of the body of traders in Chitrali Bazaar, told The News that 400 shops in the market were dealing in Chitrali Patti, but the business has suffered badly because of militancy and terrorism in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. He said the decrease in the number of visitors from other parts of the country and abroad had affected their business. “Because of militancy, we can’t send our product to tribal areas, which was once our lucrative market,” he said.

He said that power outages had also affected the business as more than half of their product was now made through power looms, which were run by fuel and that had resulted in the increase in the prices of the Patti. He said that his family had been in the business for over 50 years but he would not allow his children to continue this trade, as it was no more profitable.

Sadiq Amin said that Pakol and Chugha was the traditional attire of Chitral but Afghanistan’s cultural ministry introduced it to the world as Afghan traditional dress. He felt the neglect shown by Pakistan government was another reason for this development.

Muhammad Fazil, general secretary of the body of traders, said the government should arrange exhibition of all the products made from Patti in Pakistan and abroad. He said the Cultural Directorate should also play its role in promoting the Chitrali Patti by holding exhibitions and facilitating those associated with the business.

Fazil said they used to have a thriving season only for three months from November to January. “Whatever we earn during this period, we spend it to meet our needs for nine months. People these days want to earn more money in less time. As the Chitrali Patti-making is a time-consuming business, many people are turning to other businesses,” he said.

He said though men sold the product in various part of the country but women were doing most of the labour. He said that by and large the women made the hand-woven Patti in Chitral. It would not be unfair to call it the business of Chitrali women, he said.


Terrorism, power outages hit Chitrali Patti business hard - thenews.com.pk

[HalloIsBack]

i will post another source but at the end of the next week

[HalloIsBack]

haha
just google the word kausia